Paper Tuning
A complete guide to paper tuning with easy to follow diagrams.

Paper tuning is a process of tuning a bow by examining the flight of the arrow as it leaves the bow. To do this, we place a piece of paper, taught, in front of a boss or target so that when the arrow passes through the paper it will land in safety. To 'paper tune' we examine the tear that the arrow makes in the paper. To get a clear tear, it is usually best to tune at around 5 yards, although you can move back to 20 yards when you feel confident.

Paper tuning is best suited to styles which use a mechanical release aid as there is little archers paradox (arrow bend). IMHO a finger shooter may use this method to correct nocking point location, but due to paradox the left - right tear will be unclear as the arrow will bend coming out of the bow. However, finger release archers can use this method, but again IMHO Bare Shaft Tuning is more accurate.

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The Bullet Hole Tear This kind of tear is what is known as a 'bullet hole'. This tear indicates to the archer that the point of the arrow enters in the middle of the tear made by the fletchings. This tells us that the arrow flight is good out of the bow at that distance. Note - Some arrow rests require a slightly high nocking point in order to lift the arrow off the rest and avoid hitting it. This kind of tear can be associated with almost perfect arrow flight at that distance. It is now time to try the process one more time at a longer distance - Now the fun begins.

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The Nocking Position Tears It is always important to correct the vertical tear first as correcting this tear may have some relevance with the horizontal tear.

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This kind of tear tells us that we are using a weak arrow or a clearance problem for right handed finger release archers. Left handed finger release archers will have the opposite pattern. For right handed compound release archers, the left tear is common and usually indicates a weak arrow and/or a clearance problem. Finger release archers may try - Checking for clearance Decrease bow weight/peak bow weight Use a lighter arrow point Use a heavy bow string (slower) Use a stiffer spine arrow Increase button tension or use a stiffer spring Compound fingers only - Move the arrow rest out from the riser. Compound release archer can try - Moving the arrow rest to the right Relax the bow hand to reduce torque Decrease peak bow weight Use a stiffer spined arrow

Some of the main causes why people do not achieve a perfect bullet hole is due to some of these problems:

• Gripping The Bow  If you grip the bow, the bow may not recoil correctly.  This would be the same as trying to shoot your bows while mounted in a machine press and not allowing it to kick or recoil when you shot it.  If you are a victim of gripping the bow, you need to purchase a bow sling for your bow hand and learn to shoot with your hand open.  If you do not think you grip the bow, a quick and easy test will determine whether you do or not.  Tape a tack to your bow at the position where your fingers normally grip the riser with the point sticking out.  If you find yourself with sore, bloody fingers, you are gripping the bow.  If you do not grip the bow, you will find that you can not shoot your bow without a wrist sling.  This is because the recoil of the bow will cause the bow to jump out of your hand and fall on the ground.  A wrist sling will keep your bow from falling to the ground and allow you to "catch" it as it falls. 

• Wrist Sling Too Tight If you do shoot with a wrist sling, make sure it has at least 1/2" clearance between your wrist and the sling while at full draw.  You may need the help of a friend to check this for you.  If you do not, you are not taking advantage of the sling and you may as well be gripping the bow.  Plenty of clearance is required.  On my bow, I use a simple piece of 1/4" diameter nylon string.  I tie it through a hole in the riser and over my wrist.  I always allow around 3/4" of an inch clearance when shooting.  I guarantee it will not fall out of your hand or on top of your deer as you shoot from your stand.  I've shot lots of arrows out of my stand like this and my bow has yet to hit the ground.

• Arrow is Under or Overspined If the arrow shaft is too heavy or too light for the bow you are shooting, the arrow will not flex correctly as it is being released from the bow.  A perfect sign of whether or not your arrow is too light is if your arrow, while sitting on the rest sticks way out to the left (for a Right Hand person) and it is still tearing with the point to the left on your newspaper.  If your arrow is too heavy it may ( but not always) sit on the rest with the arrow almost touching the riser of the bow (again for a right handed person).  Your arrow needs to be cut to match your draw length as well as matched up for the draw weight of your bow as well as the type of bow (compound with cams, compound with wheels or recurve).  If you do not know what size shafts to use, see a qualified archery dealer and take him your bow and tell them you need to match up your bow with the correct size arrows.

• Standing too close to the paper  If you have been working at paper tuning your bow all day but it doesn't seem to help, try moving back some.  Move to at least 5 yards or 10 yards.  Sometimes because of a combination of the problems mentioned above, you will not get you bow to shoot consistently.  If this happens, try buying some arrows with more helical.  (vane twist)  The more helical an arrow has the more it will straighten out your shooting problems.  The only disadvantage to an arrow with more helical is the loss of speed.  Additional helical acts as a wind drag and will slow your arrows down faster over longer distances.  Over short distances, however, it will not be as noticeable.